CTT time trials offer all abilities an easily accessible way of measuring your performance against others and against your previous performances - with a bit of research on the internet, you'll find that there are a suprising amount of events availble for you to take part in
Official i-Team.cc CTT Standard Distance Club Records:
Senior Male - Ben Williams : 20:00 : P881R : 25 July 2018
Senior Female - TBE
Junior Male - David Sinclair : 21:42 : P881/10 : 29 April 2006
Junior Female - Caitlin Peters : 22:00 : P883 : 7 August 2018
Juvenile Male - Matt Hickman : 21:19 : P883 : 14 August 2018
Juvenile Female - Caitlin Peters : 22:48 : P883 : 16 August 2017
Veteran Male - Warren Hannington : 22:06 : P901 : 9 July 2017
Veteran Female - TBE
Senior Male - Ben Williams : 49:54 : P884/25 : 3rd July 2019
Junior Female - Caitlin Peters : 56:16 : R25/3H : 2018
Youth Female - Caitlin Peters : 57:15 : R25/3H : 27 June 2016
Veteran Male - Mark Sterling : 59:03 P881/25 : 23 July 2017
To be established / claimed:
Youth Male / Junior Male / Junior Female / Veteran Female / Senior Female
Senior Male - Dan Cole : 2:00:02 : G50/50 : 29 June 2014
Veteran Male - Mark Sterling : 2:06:31 : P417 : 17 May 2016
To be established / claimed:
Youth Female / Youth Male / Junior Male / Junior Female / Senior Female / Veteran Female
Please send a PM to Guy Watson if you have beaten any of the above times or have established a new club record in a CTT Event.
Interested in Riding a TT?
CTT time trials offer all abilities an easily accessible way of measuring your performance against others and against your previous performances - with a bit of research on the internet, you'll find that there are a suprising amount of events availble for you to take part in:
Link For CTT South DC course and events, including all local club events
Link for National CTT Open Events
Training for Time Trials
What are CTT Time Trials?
CTT Time Trials are a uniquly British institution, the events began when racing on British roads was illegal. Staggered starts at 1 minutes intervals meant that those competing could claim to be “just going about their business” and participants often wore all black clothing to be as inconspicuous as possible.
What does 'P901 or G50/50' mean?
Because racing on a public highway was illegal until 1960, courses were given codes, such as “G50/50” to maintain a secretive nature, so only those 'in the know' would know where the event was taking place. Because the codes were never changed to be more user friendly, (e.g. 'A3 - Liss - Liphook - Liss') - an element of mystery still exists around where CTT events take place. Thankfully the courses are now listed and easily discoverable on the main CTT website and the excellent CTT South website
Where do I Start?
Many clubs organise a weekly evening club time trial during summer months. Club events are open to all including non-club members and are a gateway into the sport of cycling. Events vary offering something for every rider, from courses on quiet country lanes to busy dual carriageways. Weekly courses are often 10 miles long, riders just arrive at the agreed time, pay £3, before being given a number which signifies what time they will start their race. The day and time is usually stated on the promoting cycling club’s website - so do a google search of cycling clubs in your area. If you want to specialise in CTT Time Trails, there are also 'Open' events. For Open events. you need to be a member of a club that is affiliated to Cycling Time Trials and enter the event about 10 days in advance.
Do I Need a Special Bike or Special Equipment?
All you need to start with is a serviceable bike and a helmet. In it's purest form, a Time Trial is about beating your previous personal best time, or beating a rival, with an effort that was better what you have managed perviously. However, for the same effort, a rider can go faster with a more aerodynamic bike - so you will see riders with expensive bikes who are on a mission to see how much time they can save with aero lightweight equipment.
What's it Like to Ride a CTT Time Trial?
It’s best to arrive at the event HQ about 1 hour before your event – giving you time to change, get your number, and use the toilet (multiple times) – then get to the start. which may be a few miles from the actual H.Q. MAke sure you have a chat to the organiser and other riders - tell them you are new to the sport - everyone should be more than wiling to help.
Once the rider before you has been set off, you’ll be called forward and given the option of either being held up, with your feet in the pedals ready to go, or you can choose to start yourself.
A time keeper, (probably a rather elderly individual, who was once a lot faster than you are!) will tell you when you have 30 seconds before your start, then 10, then 5, 4, 3, 2, 1: GO! At this point – you’ll either push on the pedals, and go, or clip in and go. For about 30 seconds you will be full of adreneline and will probably be going a lot faster than you can sustain for the distance - this is normal for most people! You may get caught by someone who started behind you, or you may catch someone who started in front of you - whatever happens you must not draft behind another rider - that's cheating - this sport is all be about unassisted individual effort.
Make sure you keep your head up and look ahead, obey the highway code, and don't take risks on corners etc. that your skills cant match.
Once you’ve completed the course, try and shout your number out as you pass the finish the time keeper, then roll back to the event HQ – where, you'll have quite a bit in common with about 50 others who will have taken part.
You'll soon learn that Time Trials are all about pace judgement and maintaining as high a constant power output that you can over the distance - it takes practise!
CTT time trials are similar to the Olympic Time Trial discipline in many ways, but unlike being the 'Race of Truth,' you will discover that sometimes, the biggest factor in how fast a competitor goes is how busy the course is with traffic! Each car or lorry that passes a rider disturbs the air that the rider is trying to push through, this results in the rider going faster than they would if the road was traffic free.
Some competitors will actually travel many miles to seek out the busiest courses to set a 'traffic assissted' personal best time - this is a long way from the spirit with which the sport was founded, when legends like Frank Southall and Ray Booty set the standards - but it's an option open for you to explore if you like that sort of thing! The key thing to remember, if you discover that other riders finished an event with a PB that's faster than yours, it could be that they finished a long way down on the winner in a very fast 'traffic assisted' event.
As a parent, you will want to ensure that your child is safe whenever they undertake any type of sports activity without your supervision. You will no doubt be reassured that for your child's saftey. Portsmouth School of Cycle Racing is organised by i-Team.cc, which is accredited with British Cycling's Go-Ride & Sport England's Clubmark Accreditation, which require clubs to operate to the highest standards of organisation.
As part of i-Team.cc's ClubMark Accreditaion, Portsmouth School of Cycle Racing is administrated by a dedicated committee that consists of coaches, parents and helpers:
All P.S.o.C.R. committee members, coaches and helpers are members of i-Team.cc, individual members of British Cycling and have passed a Disclosure and Barring Service (DBS) check
P.S.o.C.R. has two Club Welfare Officers, who are required to attend a Child Protection Course
P.S.o.C.R. has Go-Ride sessions for under 16's are delivered by British Cycling qualified coaches, who are also required to attend courses on Child Protection & Equity, follow British Cycling's Code of Conduct, and hold a current First Aid certificate
P.S.o.C.R. operates under the i-Team.cc Child Protection Policy, which follows British Cycling guidelines for Safeguarding & Protecting Children
Quality coaching in traffic free, controlled environments:
P.S.o.C.R. delivesr coaching activities in traffic-free environments. For most sessions, any type of bike can be used, so long as it is not to big or small for your child, in good condition and well maintained. Suitable clothing and a cycling helmet must be worn. The sessions teach the necessary skills to make riders more competent, safer cyclists and be able to progress on to racing, should they so desire.
What will my child gain from this?
The Go-Ride programme of cycling activities promotes good health and includes fun activities that are easy to learn. As obesity levels in young people rise, cycling can be seen as a very enjoyable way of getting exercise and countering a sedentary lifestyle. We also enforce good behaviour and promote good social skills. We have experience with children on the Autistic spectrum and ADHD.
Will my child be safe?
All Go-Ride clubs have a commitment to ongoing training for their volunteers, coaches and officials, to have a sound structure, to be fair and equitable and to undertake training to support British Cycling's Policies and Guidelines for child protection and best practice. All parents are required to sign a disclaimer before their child takes part in our sessions. P.S.o.C.R. coaches and/or helpers may take suitable photographs of participants to use for promotion of our coaching sessions. Parents may also take photographs of their children with other participants. If you do not want pictures of your child to be used for these purposes, just let one of our coaches or helpers know.
What are the risks of cycling / cycle racing?
Like any sport, Cycling does have its inherent risks, which all riders and parents must accept - especially when new skills are being learnt. Even the best professional riders still fall off occasionally. To mitigate these risks, all coaching sessions are risk assessed and i-Team.cc / P.S.o.C.R. takes all relevant actions to reduce risks to what coaches decide to be a tollerable level. P.S.o.C.R. follows British Cycling's strict limits on coach/rider ratios, which is specific to the coaching facility, coaching activity, coach qualifications and the ability mix of the group. As such, we do everything in our power to provide a safe environment in which your child can cycle and can learn the skills that will ultimately make their cycling safer.
What qualifications do our cycling coaches have?
All P.S.o.C.R. coaches are British Cycling qualified or coaches or coaches in training. All British Cycling coaching awards include sports coach UK's Safeguarding and Protecting Children workshop, which helps to ensure that our club provides a safe and welcoming environments for young people of all backgrounds. Coaches are also encouraged to broaden their knowledge to suit their particular requirements, for example, attending the sports coach UK workshop How to Coach Disabled People in Sport.
For more detailed information, see >>>British Cycling Safeguarding
Jack Smith was the engine behind Portsmouth Cycling Club, helping it's riders achieve unprecidented successes in track cycling.
30 years before British Cycling started their Go-Ride initiative, Jack went in to Portsmouth Schools and invited them to use the Cycle Track at the Mountbatten Centre, for their P.E. lessons. Jack would volunteer his time to organise the track sessions and provide coaching, and thanks to a grant from Portsmouth City Council, he was able to provide the young riders with track bikes to use, and in doing so, removed a major barrier to taking up the sport. Very quickly, a core group of very talented riders emerged from a place on the South Coast that was well off the radar for National Squad selectors (sound familiar?)
Jack founded the Portsmouth School of Cycle Racing in the early 1970's, which was eventually absorbed into the Portsmouth Cycling Club. Working with John Hayles, he organised coaching sessions every Friday Evening and Sunday morning - all year round. Jack would usually arive an hour before the session to sweep the leaves and debris off of the track, before spending many an hour in all weathers coaching the riders.
Jack was 'Old School' even back then - but in the best possible way! He saw opportunity in risks that most others today would filter out as just a risk - such as using his big Triumph pacing motor on the slightly banked track at Portsmouth, to pace youths up to 40mph to see if they could sprint past on the line (there weren't may in the club who couldn't sprint!)
Jack (seen here above on the right,) wasn't at all reckless though and had years of experience from pacing with big motors during the 1960's, up to the end of the era for this particular branch of the sport. "If you can ride behing a motor, you can ride anything," was his saying - and most of what he said turned out to be true.
Another thing which couldn't really happen today was he'd borrow a minibus from a school and take us all away for a weekend to race at Liecester on the Saturday and Nottingham on the Sunday, giving so many of us the opportunity to race against the best riders in the country.
Looking back, there was a real method to everything he did for us. Below is a great article from Cycling Weekly - it's from another era, but a lot of Jack's innovative spirit lives on today with the approch taken by the Portsmouth School of Cycle Racing Coaches.
R.i.P. Jack & thanks for the inspiration - Guy Watson
During the 1970's and Early 1980's, Portsmouth Cycling Club achieved an unprecidented level of success at the National Track Championships, with riders such as Jim Langmead, Peter McGowan, Tony Mayer and i-Team.cc club president, Rob Hayles. i-Team.cc founder Guy Watson joined P.C.C. in 1979 and remains the current Chairman.
This web page has been made to remind the world that Portsmouth Cycling Club has a proud history, and although it is currently closed to new members, it is still alive and well, and also in memory of Jim Lanmead and Portsmouth School of Cycle Racing founder Jack Smith.
Jim and Jack typify what made Portsmouth Cycling Club such a great group to be a part of and why it was so succesfull in the 1970's and 1980's. In many ways, some of the spirit of Portsmouth CC lives on in i-Team.cc, especially because the club founder and main sponsor are also both PCC members, and like PCC, i-Team.cc is based at the Mountbatten Centre in Portsmouth, and organises the Portsmouth School of Cycle Racing.
Above National 2000m Tandem Sprint Track Championships 1987, Brian Fudge steers with stoker Jon Belfield (Director and Owner of i-Team.cc main sposor, InTandem Systems)
Jack Smith (seen here with Commonwealth Games Medalist Tony Mayer,) was the engine behind Portsmouth CC's success on the track. 30 years before British Cycling started their Go-Ride initiative, to encourage youth participation by working with schools and youth groups, Jack contacted Portsmouth Schools and invited them to use the Cycle Track at the Mountbatten Centre, Alexandra Park, Portsmouth, for their P.E. lessons. Jack volunteered his time to organise the sessions and provide coaching, and thanks to a gract from Portsmouth City Council, was able to provide the young riders with track bikes to use - removing a major barrier to taking up the sport.
Very quickly, a core group of very talented riders emerged from a place on the South Coast that was well of the radar for National Squad selectors (sound familiar?)
Jim Langmead competed as an able-bodied athlete because there was no alternative - it would be decades before ParaSport and the ParaOlympics would provide a rider like Jim with the opportunity to compete at a World Class level.
Above: Herne Hill 1978 representing Great Britain left to right Russell Williams, Brad Thurell, Jim Langmead RIP Portsmouth Cycling Club, David Akam and Gordon Wooldridge.
Despite having one leg that was dissproportionally several inches shorter, with hardly any calf muscle and a foot several sizes shorter than his 'normal' side, Jim went on to win the National Sprint Championship, Medal in the NAtional Junior Sprint Championship and be selected to represent Great Britian.
Long before the World the World Class Performance Plan, Pete got 8th in the 1979 World Junior 1km champs in Argentina when his training consisted of some work behind the motorbike once a week at The Mountbatten Centre, and training on his road bike doing intervals up Portsdown Hill!
With a determination to succeed that truley sets the bechmark for dedication, at 19, Pete found a way to be one of the only Westerners to be alowed to train behing the Iron Curtain with the then dominant East German team, where he gained the respect of the East German, Russian and Checkslovakian squads.
Accompanying Jim at the 1979 World's was Tony Mayer....
Tony was unbeatable on his day and a real all-rounder, competitive at all distances from 1kmTT to 100km TT and Road Racing.
Tony (bottom left above) was a hugely talented rider who won the National Championship (and set the National Record for) the 3000m Junior Team Pursuit. Tony went on to win several National tiles and represent Great Britian and medal at World Championships and Commonwealth Games.
Above: 1983 Worlds Zurich GB Team Pursuit — with Paul Curran, Tony Mayer, Shaun Wallace and Adrian Timmis.
As a measure of his talent, Tony rocked up at the Etape du Tour a few years ago, after a good decade or so away from the bike and finsihed in the top 200!
Another story in the Tony legend was when he was training for the 1983 National 25 mile TT Champs. He'd been out training doing intervals and rode past the start of a Fareham Wheelers evening 10 mile TT on the P812 Hipley Course. Good riders would normally win this with a short '24' - Tony entered on the line and won the club event with a long '21'! - I don't think any rider has come close since - and Tony was riding a standard road bike without Tri-Bars. 4 days later, Tony rode that same road bike in the National 25 and was just beaten into 2nd place by the great Dave Lloyd.
Above: Pete & Tony - joint National Champions!
As well as the above riders, who went on to represent their country, riders such as Brian Fudge, Paul Gatenby, Nigel Powell, Paul McGuiness etc. would win National Medals and win National Races.
Above: Double World Champion, Olympic medalist and i-Team.cc Club President Rob Hayles (holding bike) with i-Team.cc founder Guy Watson (Far Right)
Enthusiastic Youths & Juniors can sometimes arrive at their first race, nervous, excited, eager to compete - only to be told that their bike falls foul of the regulations, 'because their bikes gearing is not compliant with the rules.' This can be confusing and frustrating for rider and parents, especially if a brand new bike was purchased in good faith and the shop said that the bike was 'race-ready.'
Far from being over-zealous kill-joys, race oficials must follow the regulations set by international and national cycling organisations, which limit the top gear for all youth and junior racers participating in road and track races. This is because gear restrictions teach good pedaling techniques that will be essential later in life, help prevent injury, encourage good race tactics and level the playing field when children are developing at different rates.
Above - All i-Youths and Juniors use gears appropriate for their age category IN TRAINING as well as when racing.
WHY DO WE HAVE GEAR RESTRICTIONS?
Young riders develop at different rates, restricting gears helps put all riders on a fair and equal standing, rather than always favouring the strongest children who happen to develop early. (Such early developers might win lot's to start with but then struggle later when it comes to Junior and Adult racing.)
Young bodies repair quickly but are vulnerable to overuse injuries, restricting gears helps to avoid injuriies due strength imbalances in fast growing children.
To be succesful as an adult in bike racing, you have to pedal big gears fast - not push big gears slowly. So you first have to teach your body to pedal restricted gears fast, ready for when the real strength comes later in life.
Restricted gears encourage young riders to succeed in races using tactics, as opposed to races being dominated to who can push the biggest gear in the group. This will help to support the riders in learning the techniques which they will need throughout their competitive career.
WHAT GEARS ARE MY SON OR DAUGHTER ALLOWED TO USE IN RACES?
All bikes should be checked prior to the event and the first three riders plus any picked at random in addition to those using gear locking should be rechecked as soon as the event finishes. If a bike does not meet the regulations the rider will be disqualified.
Please note that the sprocket and chain ring combination cannot be used in isolation to assess gear size. The absolute measure for gear restriction is the distance travelled in one complete revolution of the cranks.
Tyre dimensions; please be aware that although the manufacturer may detail their tyres as a standard dimensions, there will be variations from brand to brand. For example because it says “23” on the side does not mean it’s the same as another tyre with “23” on the side,
HOW TO CHECK YOUR GEARS
The test to see if a race bike is legal, i.e. if it's top gear is not over the biggest (hardest to push) gear that is permitable for each age category, is called the "rollout test" - it checks the distance that a bike travels in a straight line with one full pedal revolution, when in top gear.
Click Here for video on how to perform a gear check
BRITISH CYCLING AGE CATEGORIES & MAXIMUM GEARS ALLOWED:
YOUTH A (Under 16 - from 1st January in year of 15th Birthday until 31st December in year of 16th birthday) Maximum Gear = 6.93 metres (e.g. 39x12 / 42x13 / 47x15 / 52x16)
YOUTH B (Under 14 - from 1st January in year of 13th Birthday until 31st December in year of 14th birthday) Maximum Gear = 6.45 metres (e.g. 39x13 / 42x14 / 45x15 / 51x17)
YOUTH C (Under 12 - from 1st January in year of 11th Birthday until 31st December in year of 12th birthday) Maximum Gear = 6.05 metres (e.g. 39x14 / 42x15 / 45x16 / 48x17)
YOUTH D (Under 10 - from 1st January in year of 9th Birthday until 31st December in year of 10th birthday) Maximum Gear = 5.40 metres (e.g. 41x16 / 43x17 / 46x18 / 49x19)
YOUTH E (Under 8 - until 31st December in year of 8th birthday) Maximum Gear = 5.10 metres (e.g. 39x16 / 41x17 / 43x18 / 48x19)
N.B. For track and roller racing events where an exceptionally talented Youth A, B or C rider has received dispensation from British Cycling HQ to compete against riders of an older category, then that rider shall be restricted in gearing to that of the older category.
JUNIORS (Under 19 / OVER 16 - From 1st Jan of year in which 17th birthday falls to 31st December of year in which 18th birthday falls.) Maximum Gear = 7.93 metres (e.g. 52x14)
Click Here to Download a chart of gear ratios
COACH, GUY WATSON ANSWERS SOME FREQUENTLY ASKED QUESTIONS:
"I've done a roll-out test on my son's road bike but the gear is too big - what can I do?"
If your gear is not too far over, the easiest thing to do is to adjust the rear deraileur, using the limit screws, so that the chain will not go onto the smallest sprockets and/or adjust the front deraileur so that the chain will not go on to the large chainring. If this is beyond the adjustment limits of the deraileur, you will have to buy a new cassette for the rear and possibly new chain rings.
You can buy after market chainrings in lots of different sizes to fit any cranks - but you need to know the PCD (pitch circle diameter) - it should be etched on your existing chain rings next to where it says number of teeth.
Modern Campagnolo are typically 135mm PCD
Shimano are 110mm PCD
Some FSA cranks are different again and are 130mm PCD.
It may be easier / cheaper to buy new cranks to suit the rings that are available - in which case, you should go for 165mm cranks. 170mm are just about OK but 172.5 are more difficult to spin with restricted gearing and long cranks over 165/170mm in length are far from ideal as they place a lot of strain on knee joints.
BBB do a range of SRAM and Shimano compatable Youth and Junior casettes with a 16 tooth smallest sprocket
"Guy, what would you recomend is the best combination for a me? I am a Youth B (U14) I'm currently allowed a maximum gear of 6.45m, e.g. 46 tooth biggest front chainring and a 15 tooth smallest rear sprocket. The trouble is that my bike came with 53 and 39 tooth chainrings and a 13/14/15/16/18/20/23/26 rear cassette - but if I wind the rear deraileur screw all the way in, I can't stop the chain from going on to the small sprockets..."
The no-cost option is to adjust the front deraileur so that you can't use the big chainring (but can still trim the front mech to avoid chain rub) The problem with this set up is that gears are really not designed to run that far out of line (bigest sprocket and biggest chain ring or smallest sprocket and smallest chainring) - this combination will run rough, wear out your chain quickly and may jump in a sprint.
I would recommend buying a 45 tooth chainring - put your 53 ring aside for a few years. This will then give you 45 & 39 tooth chainrings up front - pretty close ratio but stll usable and it will help with keeping the chain from unshipping. Depending on how narrow your tyres are, you might get away with a 46 tooth chainring up front, which would be ueseful for Youth A gears in a season or 2.
"Can I buy a Youth bike with everything set up correctly for Youth racing?"
Definitely, I recommend the following:
Road Bikes: Isla Bikes offer a great range
Track Bikes: Dolan make some of the best
Youths grow out of their bikes quickly, so you should be able to find one of the above 2nd hand on eBay etc. and purchase it for less than the cost of a new so-called youth bike that has gears that are not appropriate for racing.
Alternatively, if you are mechanically minded, you can start form scratch with a small frame and build up with 2nd Hand parts such as in these 2 examples:
Above, keeping it all in proportion: Youth C custom bike, built from scratch around a 43cm women's frame, with:
Full size 700c wheels
45 x 34 chainrings
16 up rear casette
Above, money-no-object for a very lucky Youth E - imported from Italy!
550c wheels (tubulars)
42 x 34 chainrings
15 up rear casette
Cycling as part of an organised group, (known as a 'peloton') has many advantages for both the individual riders and other road users:
Riding alongside others is sociable
Riding behind others is very efficient because you are using up to 30% less energy
Other road users often find it easier & safer to pass one bunch of cyclists that is cohesive and behaving predictably, rather than trying to pass the same number of cyclists riding as a succession of uncoordinated individuals, pairs or small groups.
By sharing a common awareness, the same number of cyclists in well drilled bunch, can stop or manoeuvre quicker and more safely, than if the cyclists were riding individually or in disorganised groups
Inexperienced riders in a peloton can be danger to themselves and to others - so to stay safe, they need to get 'up to speed' not just with the pace of the more experienced rides - but also with the level of skill needed.
You can start the learning process to become a better bunch rider by reading this article, which has gathered together tips & advice from our experienced members and qualified coaches.
There's quite a bit of information to take in if you are a beginner - but try not to be put off - you are not expected to know it all from the off. It takes many, many miles of group riding for the points below to become instinctive - and even then everyone can make mistakes. All that is expected of you is to try to ride safe and try your best to improve in your own time.
Our 10 Tips For Riding in a Peloton:
Riding solo or on the wheel of a friend will help you to develop and improve your general bike-handling skills but it is just not possible to learn to ride safely and efficiently in a peloton unless you train as part of an organised group.
Of course everyone has to start somewhere, but rocking up to a race or mass participation event such as a cyclo-sportive, with little or no bunch riding skills, is not really ideal. So start by finding a good group of helpful & experienced riders (i.e. your local cycling club,)who will remember what it was like for them when they started out and will be patient - providing you are well prepared and ready to listen and learn - so read on!
1 - FAIL TO PLAN / PLAN TO FAIL
Everyone punctures and everyone suffers a mechanical now and again - but if it happens too often on a ride, it detracts from the fun. So always check your tyres for cuts and embeded flints before a ride.
Make sure your bike is well maintained and is serviceable
Always carry a spare tube, puncture repair kit, tyres levers, CO2 pumps, a spare cannister and conventionalk pump - and know haw to use them. A puncture stop should never take longer than 5 minutes!
2 - SAY HELLO & GOODBYE!
Introduce yourself to the group so they know who you are and can look out for you on the ride. Ask any questions you might have about the ride, such as any intended route, speed etc.
If you intend to leave the ride early - let someone know
If you decide at any point to turn off or turn back - say Goodbye in case a search party is organised!
3 - BE PREDICTABLE
From a safety point of view, if there had to be only one rule – this would be it!
When you turn up to ride with a group, it may have been a week or more since you last rode with others – you have to make sure your head is switched on to Group Riding Mode.
From the moment the group sets off, all of your actions will affect the group as a whole, so unpredictable riding can be very dangerous to everyone.
Unexpected or unpredictable actions are the single biggest cause of crashes in a bunch of riders.
All obvious enough but the following rules explain some of the finer points...
4 - FOLLOW SMOOTH
The wheel in front is your wheel - ride behind it!
Don't ride wide to the side of the wheel in front and try to look around the rider in front of you - Look 'through' the wheel in front of you to one or two riders ahead - this will help you hold a smooth, straight line so that others can easily follow you.
For ordinary club run speeds, an appropriate gap between your front wheel and the wheel in front of you is around 0.5 - 1.0m - no more than a wheel's diameter.
Keep your hands close to the brakes but not on the brakes in case of sudden slowing - remember, if you run out of braking room, you can normally just drift to the side of the rider in front. Sometimes people who are not used to riding in a bunch will feel too nervous at this close range - riding on the right side (in the U.K.) is generally less nerve-racking for such people as they feel less hemmed in.
If you are really struggling to ride close to the wheel in front of you, practice on the back and soon you will be able to move up the line with a partner.
5 - KEEP IT TOGETHER
You should generally try to ride with your handlebars, shoulders and elbows parallel to the rider alongside you as this will make it easy for the riders behind to remain in 2 abreast formation.
This will also reduce the chances of getting hooked on the other rider’s bars or knocked by the other rider’s knees.
If you do accidently get too close to another rider, try to ensure that your handlebars do not touch by keeping your bike upright and leaning so that you rub shoulders rather than rubbing handlebars - but hold your line.
If you are in the bunch and there is no one beside the person in front of you, you should move up to fill the gap
If no one is alongside you and no-one moves into a gap beside you, move to the back of the bunch, so that the next pair can move up the line.
Don't overlap wheels - a slight direction change or gust of wind could easily cause you to touch wheels with the rider in front, which could cause you too crash.
Look ahead - do not become obsessed with the rear wheel directly in front of you. Try to focus four or five riders up the line so that any 'problem' will not suddenly affect you.
Keep your upper body relaxed to absorb any road bumps - but always keep a thumb hooked under the bars or brake levers so that any bump doesn't cause your hand or hands to fly off the bars.
Do not get lulled into a false sense of security when riding in the bunch - your safety and that of others depends on you staying vigilant.
Always make your own call at roundabouts, cross roads and T junctions - never blindly follow a bunch through a give way sign without looking for approaching traffic yourself. If the group does become split, make sure those in front are aware – they should then pull over in a safe spot such as a lay-by, so that the bunch can re-form. For this reason, it’s pointless for riders on the front to run an amber traffic light
Never take your hands of the bars in the middle of the bunch to sit up to stretch your back, put a cape on or remove clothing etc. when you have riders on your wheel relying on you. Go to the back first, if you hit a stone and fall off, at least it's only you and your bike that's hurt.
When drinking, always hold a bottle to the side of your mouth so that you can see where you are going while you drink - the other hand should be lightly covering a brake.
Don’t prop - manybeginners, freewheel momentarily when they first get out of the saddle to go over a rise or a hill. When doing this, the bike is forced backwards. For the rider behind, it looks like you've deliberately forced your back wheel towards them. Try to keep forward pressure on the pedals when you get out of the saddle to avoid this situation. When climbing hills, avoid following a wheel too closely many riders often lose their momentum when rising out of the saddle on a hill which can cause a sudden deceleration.
Experienced riders should always politely point out any mistakes made by less experienced riders. This must be done diplomatically of course, try to be positive - but it is important to make people aware of unsafe riding and help them learn the right behaviour.
6 – BRAKE CARFULLY
If you unexpectadly brake too much and too hard, it causes a chain reaction through the bunch behind you - and it takes only one rider to not be ready and the slowing down could cause an accident.
Rather than braking all of the time, try to use subtle changes in body position to sit up and catch more wind to slow down, or perhaps gradually moving slightly out into the wind from behind a rider in front and then slot back into position in the bunch.
Riding with your hands on the brake lever hoods or on the drops while in the bunch, with two fingers resting lightly on the brakes ready in case of the unexpected.
Sitting up with your hands on the brake lever hoods gives the riders behind a clear advance indication that you might be about to brake.
Often it helps your balance and smoothes your braking if you carry on pedalling during braking.
7 – CONSTANT EFFORT vs. CONSTANT SPEED
Constant speed means pedalling smoothly when you’re within the bunch, and hold a consistent speed rather than surging forward when you’re moving up to take your turn at the front. Surges cause gaps further back in the bunch which in turn creates a 'whiplash' effect as riders at the back have to continually chase to stay with the bunch. This is particularly evident in larger bunches when cornering or taking off from standing starts at traffic lights where the front of the bunch can be up to speed before the back of the bunch is moving. When you are trying to keep a group together on a club ride, you don't sprint out of corners like you do in a race.
Constant effort means pedalling downhill when at the front of the bunch to compensate for having more wind drag than those on your wheel - otherwise the whole bunch is on the brakes even though you are just coasting.
If riders in the bunch unavoidably speeding up and slowing down, give them some 'elasticity' by allowing them to surge forward and then fall back in line.
8 - COMMUNICATION IS KING
Speaking clearly and loudly so people can hear and quickly understand what you are doing can give the split second warning the riders behind need - E.G.: "Braking" "Stopping" “Car Up” (If there is parked car or car pulling out that may represent risk coming up, sometimes the bunch swing out of the way and an unsuspecting rider is left with nowhere to go.) “Car Back” (If a car is coming from behind and the bunch have to move in to allow room for it to pass,) “Rider/s” if the bunch is passing slower riders, or a cyclist is approaching from the other direction.
Point out obstacles such as loose gravel, broken glass, holes, rocks or debris on the road and calling out "hole" etc.in case someone misses your signal.
Signals should be in proportion to the amount of obstacles / severity of the pot holes etc. If the road is really pot holed or muddy, the bunch will know soon enough once you shout out "Take care gravel!" (etc.) so there is no need to over do the signals and shouts.
Never drop a hand to point if it prevents you from being able to control your bike.
On hearing or seeing a command, everyone should let a bigger gap open between riders and take care. When you do get past an obstacle, don't put the power on until the back of the bunch has left the bad road behind.
Remember, all this communication is wasted unless everyone passes the message on, all the way to the back of the peloton, not just letting those close to the front know.
9 - TAKING A TURN ON THE FRONT
The most common way to take a turn on the front of the group is for each pair just to stay together until the reach the front after other riders have taken their turn at the front.
When you make it to the front, don't up the pace or 'half wheel'. This means keeping half a wheel in front of your partner. This automatically makes your partner speed up slightly to pull back alongside you. Often half wheelers will also speed up, so the pace of the bunch invariably speeds up as the riders behind try to catch up. This is the very annoying symptom usually of somebody who is a bit nervous and excited. Not wanting the rest of the group to end up not being next to each other in their pairs, (or not wanting the other guy to think that he's better than you), you speed up to match his pace. But, he still needs to be that little bit in front so he speeds up - again, until everyone in the bunch has gone up two or three gears and 10km/hr and no one is particularly happy.
Lead when it's your turn on the front - remember when you are on the front, you are not only responsible for yourself but have a duty of care to consider how your actions can affect everyone in the group behind you. When you are leading the bunch, try to monitor potential problems and give plenty of warning of impending stops or changes of pace. Scan the road ahead for potential problems, pedestrians, horses, oncoming vehicles, red lights etc. and be ready to signal to others what's coming up.
Sprinting out of corners is hard-wired in to all racers but it will cause a mixed ability group to really string out and eventaully break up - try not to do it!
After having a turn on the front (generally about the same amount of time as everyone else is taking - about 2 miles is right), the front pair separates and moves apart, allowing the riders behind to come through the middle to the front.
Plan when to come off the front - you and your partner need to do some planning when you get on the front so that when you roll through you come off at a place where the road is wide enough for the group to be four-wide for a short time. With some planning, it is often possible to come off the front a few hundred metres earlier or later to avoid a dangerous situation.
Always retire to the back of the bunch - if riders push in somewhere in the middle of the bunch rather than retiring to the back after taking a turn, cyclists at the back will not be able to move forward and take a turn of their own. This will make them a bit miffed and colourful language may ensue! No one wants to be stuck at the back of the bunch for the entire ride and subjected to the "whiplash" effect. Remember that riding in a bunch is about all riders sharing the workload, unless you are struggling, or learning the ropes.
To get to the back, stop pedalling for a while to slow down, keep an eye out for the end of the bunch and fall back into line there. It is safer for everyone if you get to the back as quickly as possible as the group is effectively riding four-abreast until you and your partner slot in at the back of the bunch.
If a car does come up from behind, or if the road narrows, indicate that you want to slot into the group and someone will ease and let you in temporarily. As soon as it is safe, move out again and get to where you should be at the back of the bunch.
10 - OBEY THE RULES OF THE ROAD
Stopping at stop signs and red lights, slow down for give way signs, indicating before you turn, sticking to the bike lanes wherever practical and riding with consideration and courtesy to other road users.
Not following road rules is confusing for drivers and other cyclists around you, and dangerous because it makes your riding seem erratic and unpredictable
Cyclists have every right to share the road, they do not have the right to ride inconsiderably and obstruct other traffic for mile after mile.
Take care when overtaking other road users including cyclists, horse riders and pedestrians - give them a friendly shout to let them know you are approaching and give them as wide a birth as possible, as road and traffic conditions allow. If in doubt about safety, i.e. if there is approaching traffic, or if a horse appears nevous for instance, slow down and prepare to stop, giving as much notice as possible to everyone behind.
There are not many instances when it is appropriate to ride more than 2 abreast on the open road - so if riding in pairs, stay directly behind the wheels in front - don't drift to the side as from behind, this will look like everyone is riding 2 or 3 abreast.
Examples of where riding more than 2 abreast is unavoidable would be where riders are moving from the front to that back of the bunch, or if the group has to overtake a slower vehicle. Cars overtake using both lanes all the time - but it has to be done safely - look behind and in front and signal to the rest of the group before overtaking.
On a hill, you must only overtake slower riders after you have checked that there is no vehicle overtaking, or about to overtake from behind.
There will be times when there is not enough room for a car to pass even if the bunch (or individual) were to drop into single file. In that situation, making room for a car to pass is giving the car an invitation to come through which may put riders or on-coming traffic at risk.
Cyclists have been riding in groups on the open roads for over 100 years and most the time they can share with other road users safely, without a problem. A certain amount of give and take is needed on all sides of course and It's a fact of life that due to the sheer number of people using the roads, sometimes you will encounter other road users who are impatient, ignorant, or even negligent or agressive in a way that can endanger your life, as well as theirs and other road users. Always try to remain passive whilst you are on your bike - you simply will not win an arguement with an automobile for instance! Try to let poor behaviour go if you can - one day they will meet their match.
However, if you encounter behaviour that endangers life, or could cause injury, take a note of the number plate and as many details as you can about the vehicle and driver AND ALLWAYS REPORT IT TO THE POLICE.
Of course, cyclists, horse riders and walkers are nearly always drivers themselves and so understand that if the peloton is perceived to be obstructing any traffic behind, it could cause annoyance and give the club a bad reputation.
But providing a group rides appropriately, it should not be seen as obstructing the traffic, it should be seen as part of the traffic.
We all had to start somewhere - here's some basic tips to get you started if you are new to cycling...
1 - Spin, spin, spin!
It's a common misconception that pushing a big (hard to push) gear will build up your legs and make you a faster cyclist -
Fast cyclists turn big gears quickly - so you have to learn to pedal quickly first - otherwise you will be teaching yourself to push hard but slow. Don't worry, you will get enough strength from climbing hills!
A good pedaling cadence to aim for is around 90 RPM (that's 3 up and downs per second - ) on the flat and try to keep pedaling at least 60 RPM on the hills if possible. One way to monitor without counting is: if you are feeling the burn in your leg muscles on fairly level terrain, then you are probably not spinning enough. If you are breathing hard on level ground, you may be spinning too fast. At first it will feel like you are working harder but this is because you are having to teach your leg muscles to be more coordinated. After a few rides, spinning will become second nature and your new found coordinated pedaling style will make you a lot more energy efficient over long distances.
Other reasons for spinning instead of pushing:
* Instead of being a 'diesel' and having to constantly change gear to keep in your comfort zone, you will become a high revving 'petrol' and have a much more flexible pedaling range.
* You will be able to keep up much more easily in a group because you will be able to instantly respond to their accelerations.
* Injury prevention - knees and back are especially vulnerable to overload.
2 - Don't be a 'Nodder!'
When you ride your bike, your upper body should be as still as possible - even when you are trying hard. Some riders have no trouble with this and instantly look like a pro bike rider. For others, it 'feels' more natural and efficient to move their shoulders left and right to shift their upper bodyweight over the leg that is pushing down. One of the reasons that this may feel more 'natural' is that they are not spinning as described above. Sometimes you might have a 'Nod' or 'Bob' that is really noticeable to others - even though you might not be aware of it. Next time that you are out riding with the sun on your back - check your shadow on the road and see how much you are moving your upper body.
Reasons not to 'Nod:'
* The faster you pedal, the faster you 'Nod' - this will impair your ability to 'spin'
* You will find it difficult to ride in a straight line - this may provoke others in a group to have a word with you because you will be endangering their safety.
* You are wasting energy.
* If you find it difficult to stop 'nodding' - try to loosen your grip on the handle bars and try holding the bars in different positions, e.g., both hands next to the handlebar stem.
* If you use 'drop' or 'racing' handlebars, don't grip the brake lever hoods with your elbows pointing out. Rotate your wrists inwards slightly (left wrist clockwise / right hand anti-clockwise) and bend and pull your elbows slightly inwards, so that the inside of your forearms make contact with the handlebars. This transfers more of the load from your muscles to your skeleton. Try it - it works! (If this feels a bit cramped - you may need to move your brake levers down a bit - many bikes come pre-assmbled with brake levers mounted for easiest access - as you become more experienced, you may want to have your levers mounted for optimum access with maximum comfort (high doesn't always mean comfy - ask your bike shop is in doubt.)
If you have a static indoor trainer (Turbo) - try this workout once or twice a week to turn yourself into a spinner:
1 - 10 minute warm up at your 'normal' revs in a low/medium gear (not much resistance.)
2 - Then, staying in the same gear, slowly accelerate until the point where you are loosing coordination and start to bounce on the saddle. As soon as you start to bounce, decelerate back to normal revs and recover. Do as many reps as you can in 5 minutes.
3 - Recover for 5 minutes at an easy pace
4 - Repeat step 2.
5 - Warm down for 5 minutes.
3 - Drink, Drink, Drink!
By the time you feel thirsty, you are already dehydrated. Try to remember to take small drinks often. Until you get in the habit, every time you see another rider take a drink, reach for your bottle. Some riders like water, others prefer sports drinks such as Gatorade. A benefit of sports drinks is the carbohydrates and potassium they contain. Read the label and choose one which contains sucrose or dextrose. Drinks which contain high fructose corn syrup are harder to digest and can cause some riders stomach distress.
* Hold a bottle to the side of your head when you offer it up to your mouth - that way you will continue to be able to see where you are going!
4 - Eat, Eat, Eat!
If you are on your bike for more than an hour, your body needs food. Sports drinks help, but they are not enough for longer rides. You don't want to 'hit the wall' or 'bonk' (cycling slang for when your body has used up its supply of readily available fuel.) It's better to eat small amounts often rather then a larger amount all at once. Some riders like natural foods. Bananas, raisins, and fig bars are good. Others use energy bars - experiment and find what is best for you.
* If you are trying to loose weight - don't reduce your calories during cycling - you will end up just riding more slowly due to fuel shortage. If you eat enough to ride normally - you will actually burn more net calories.
* Always keep some emergency energy bars in your pocket or saddle pack in case you become lost, or delayed, or the weather changes.
5- Punctures will happen - be prepared...
Practice changing an inner tube in the comfort of your home before having to do it for real in the cold and rain (or with others around you shouting 'hurry up!') Always carry a pump (that actually works!) tyre levers, a spare tube, and a repair kit. One spare tube is not enough in case you have two punctures on the same ride. Glueless patches work fine to get you home, but they are only a temporary repair. Check your tire before putting in the new tube. Often, whatever caused the flat is still sticking through the tread - also check the rim incase the rim tape is damaged and also the sidewalls just above the beading.
* Check your tyres for flints and thorns after every ride - often a small sharp object will imbed in a tyre tread and take many hundreds of revolutions before it is hammered through and causes a puncture.
* When you fit new tyres - rub lots of talcum powder into the inside surfaces. This acts as a lubricant and stops the tubes from pinching and helps the tube to distribute itself evenly inside the tyre when you inflate.
* Do you really think that mini pump will be effective? - try it out in your garage before struggling in the cold and rain on a winters day.
6 - Use correct tyre pressures...
Just because it says '140 PSI' or '9 Bars' on your tyre - it doesn't mean that's what you pump it up to - it's just the pressure that shouldn't be exceeded. Remember - a tyre pumped up to maximum pressure will not be at the safest or fastest pressure for anything other than a straight line on a perfect surface.
If a tyre is pumped up too hard it will loose grip in normal conditions. You need some to have some 'give' in the tyre to absorb road vibration and enable some deformation - this makes your bike's handling much more predictable - otherwise you risk loosing grip suddenly, due to side-slipping.
If in any doubt refer to the following info, which will suit the majority of riders - use as a starting point to find out what works best for you:
700c x < 25c Road = 100 PSI
700 x > 25c Road = 90 PSI
650 x < 1.8" Off Road = 45 PSI
650 x < 1.8" Off Road = 35 PSI
7- Don't wear just shorts when the temperature drops.
In fact, adopt a proper cycling-specific dress code for the entire body - cycling is so different from other sports like running when it come to clothing.
When you run for instance, you use a larger muscle group than you use for cycling and so it is easy to maintain a high core temperature. Cyclists have to deal with wind chill from higher velocities and also have to cope with a much higher range of temperatures. One minute you are trying to avoid over heating on a climb - the next you are having to avoid 50 kmh of wind chill on a descent. Also if you have to stop because you or a partner has punctured - you have to stay warm.
It's a big performance envelop to expect from your clothing - so try to use cycling specific clothing whenever possible.
Legs and knees in particular, are especially at risk because joint tissues are often subject to high loads and due to the fact that they have relatively poor blood supply - they can easily become chilled and more vulnerable to damage - even if the rest of you 'feels' warm.
* If in doubt - be like the professionals - add a layer.
Temperature regulation is the key to comfort. If, during a ride, you stop for any length of time, take your helmet off and maybe one upper layer to loose heat before it turns to sweat against your skin. Replace the helmet and layers as soon as you are cool - then if you are stopping for any longer, add another layer (a cape is ideal) until you have started cycling again and have warmed up. This may sound like hassle but it will make long rides more comfortable - especially in winter.
i-Team's Racing Development Squad is a new innovation from club coach, Guy Watson, that aims to help our young members manage the transition from Youth to Junior racer, by providing them with support and guidance through what for many for them will be the biggest transition they make in their sport.
Normally a Race Team is set up around a headline sponsor such as a bike shop, and then riders are recruited from surrounding local cycling clubs. Coach-led club i-Team.cc's innovation is the formation of a Race Team that completes the club development pathway, from our youth section, Portsmouth School of Cycle Racing’ for 8-16 year olds, and then progressing on to our Racing Development Squad for 15+yr olds.
A Balanced Approach:
Previous to forming The Racing Development Squad, i-Team.cc was like most Go-Ride clubs, in that we would identify and nurture talent, and then pass talented riders on to either the Olympic Development Program. (Dani King, Kate Calvert, Jon Dibben, Joe Truman,) or an Elite Team (Richard Heathcote, Dave Sinclair.) Unfortunately, not all talented and ambitious riders are able to follow the same paths, and that's where the Racing Development Squad comes in to provide the support during the transition from ambitious Club Rider to Elite Sportsman or woman, and so help avoid something that no doubt many club cyclists and coaches will be familiar with:
Young rider starts to win some local races, attracts attention of a shop race team or sponsored club, gets offered the chance to ride in a jersey with lots of writing all over it, possibly some help with a bike or equipment and decides to 'move on.'
All too often a young rider with ambition (or overly ambitious parents,) will look at where they are now and where they want to be, draw a line between their current club and a professional team, then think that moving to a new team ot club is the logical next step towards their dream. The reality is that all too often, riders learn that moving to a new club does not suddenly make them a better rider, and in fact what they have done is remove themselves from an environment that was one of the reason they started to be successful in the first place. Some riders niavely think they can always have their cake and eat it, i.e. move on to another club and then expect to still be welcomed on club runs etc. Most clubs will be very supportive if a new club offers new opportunities, i.e. access to National or International races, coaching supports, help with bikes and equipment - however, if a rider says they are 'moving on' and on the face of it, they are just satisfying their ego more than anything else, they should not expect their former club mates to always be as supportive, because essentially the leaver is saying 'I'm better than you lot!'
Now in terms of talent and ability, that may well be the case - but talent without desire to work hard, or ability without guidance, will mean that for the majority of riders who decide to 'Move on,' the reality usually follows one of these 2 scenarios:
A perfect storm of trying to manage the biggest transitions they will ever make, from Youth to Junior, without the support network that got them to there in the first place, then not achieving the results that they (or their parents) were expecting, increased pressure & decreased enjoyment. Rider then either spends a season or 2 in the wilderness, with variable results, or worst case 'moves on' from cycling completely.
Rider continues to steadily progress towards their goals without dissruption
Unfortunately the last scenario is quite rare and the first scenario is far more common than it should be - so what's the alternative? Riders and parents need to take a reality check and ask themselves:
Has anything really held me back yet? - i.e. is the reason that I got a kicking in a National Race, or Overseas Event down to the jersey on my back?
How can I get access to better coaching? - i.e. can I stay in the club I'm in and employ my own coach - have I even discussed my training and goals with my club coach yet?
What the Racing Development Squad provides for our riders is a clear route to progress. If we can feed you in to an Elite Team, we will - in the interim, we will teach you how to train, push you to be as good as you can be - and most importantly, teach you how to recognise and appretiate those who support you.
What the Racing Development Squad Provides:
What the Racing Development Squad Expects:
Our Racing Development Squad Riders have very clearly defined responsibilities to their club, sponsors and supporters, and are taught how to maintain their bikes and not expect everything to be done for them. Riders are also taught how to be ‘Brand Ambassadors’ for suppliers associated with the team. In short, we want riders to feel that they have some support – but not feel like ‘they’ve made it,’ so we want them to get used to looking after their sponsors and fulfilling obligations to the team, club and supporters.
The riders already know each other well, including their team mates’ individual strengths and weaknesses
The riders are already well bonded as a team, and already motivate, encourage and support each other
The riders know their coach and Team Manager, now how to train smart and work hard.
The Race Team is being funded by some generous patrons and together with support from Southsea Cycles and some negotiations with suppliers, we have been able to secure an excellent team package that includes: 1-2-1 Coaching Package from PowerCoach
Plus, any additional help that can be negotiated with any suppliers & supporters who wish to be associated with our team
Riders continue to steadily progress towards their goals without dissruption, with the help of a process combining quality coaching, mentoring and self-reflection
Making 'The Grade,' Harnessing Ambition & Managing Transitions :
In 1997 Peter Keen studied the sporting careers of Senior World Champions - statistics showed on average it took 8 years of training to get Olympic Medals. Shorter (e.g. Nicole Cooke) or longer (e.g. Joop Zoetemelk) timescales are possible but there will be increased risk of failure though burn-out & injuries.
Go-Ride & Talent Team became an important priority for BC, the thinking being that starting the 8 year climb early will result in younger champions. Up to 2008 there was a high drop out rate from talent team because the ‘numbers game’ wasn’t working as well as originally thought, because the 8 year climb can only start when a rider is ready mentally & physically.
More emphasis is now being placed on forming club clusters or 'Super Clubs' (ClubMark) to support young riders who start early, or develop late, plus catch any riders who drop off the ODP pathway. This where i-Team.cc sees it's role and how the Racing Development Squad fits in to our development pathway.
For 2016 our team our proud to be using Moda Bikes. We chose Moda because they are UK Designed, Tested and Assembled, and we were able to spec exactly the build we need for our Junior Race Team, right down to handlebar width, crank length, gear ratios etc.
We have been very impressed with how the bikes have handled and perfromed in training and races. Unlike 'Sportive' bikes, which give you a relatively unright riding position; race bikes are lower at the front for better aerodynamics. Race bike also feature steeper geometry for quick handling in race conditions - you could easily use a 'Race Bike' in sportive but you would struggle with a 'Sportive Bike' in a race.
The Shimano Ultegra 6800 11 Speed Groupset probably offers the most 'Bang for your bucks' of any groupset on the market, offering faultless shifting, light weight and nice asthetics - and the components have proved to be very reliable. The Moda Vivo frame uses a new advanced is a lighter than a lot of carbon frames and our special Team Build bikes tip the scales at just 7.2kg, considerably lighter than a number of similarly priced carbon-fibre bikes.
Recent advancements in technology and manufacturing techniques has made aluminium a viable option again — and has afforded Moda the opportunity to rediscover its humle beginnings in the skill of welding tubes. But now, instead of the need to focus on keeping costs low and quality high, the chance to use higher grades of aluminium tubing means it can produce lightweight, race-ready bikes that aren’t just carbon copies of the competition.
The Vivo lives up to its name and feels lively. The well-finished frame feels stiff and keen to respond to rider input, whether that’s hard acceleration or enthusiastic cornering. The American Classic wheelset is a generous inclusion at such a low RRP and overall there’s a race-bred feeling to the Vivo that seems unlikely given its material.
Frame: LDA Triple Butted Elite Series Aluminum
Fork: LDC High Modulus Carbon with Carbon Steerer
Groupset: Full Shimano 2016 Ultegra 11 Speed
Chainset: Ultegra 6800 11 Speed 52x36
Cassette: Ultegra 6800 11 Speed 14-26
Shifters: Ultegra 6800 11 Speed
Rear Mech: Ultegra 6800 11 Speed
Front Mech: Ultegra 6800 11 Speed
Wheels: American Classic ‘Victory 30’ – 1570g Tubeless Ready
Tyres (New): Schwalbe Pro One
TEAM BIKES FOR SALE!
Like all Race Teams, we sell our team bikes from time to time and at the end of the racing season, offering you the chance to buy a 'Race Ready' team prepared bike at a knock down price!. All machines have been well maintained and come fully serviced. If you are interested in one of our bikes, would like to arrange a viewing or a test ride, please send a message using THIS FORM
At the moment we currently have the following Team Bike for sale:
BIKE ONE: Spare Team Bike - Size Medium - 54cm Top Tube - £1350 (Reasonable Offers Considered) - As New Condition - NOW SOLD!
This bike was built by Moda at their Factory to a custom specification and features 52x14 Junior Gearing – it has been very well maintained and has never been crashed or damaged. As it is the spare bike it has spent most of it's life on the roof of our Team Car and has had very little use - in fact it's virtually new!
BIKE TWO: Size Small - 48cm Top Tube - £999 (Offers considered)
Very Good Condition
This bike was built by Moda at their Factory to a custom specification and features 52x14 Junior Gearing – it has been very well maintained and has never been crashed or damaged. This bike has been fastiduously maintained and looked after by Victoria Lovett and is in very good condition. This is a race winning bike!
BIKE THREE: Size Medium - 54cm Top Tube - £849 (Offers considered)
Good Condition (Some scuff marks on cranks from shoes and on forks from cables)
This bike was built by Moda at their Factory to a custom specification and features 52x14 Junior Gearing – it has been very well maintained and has never been crashed or damaged. This bike has been fastiduously maintained and looked after by Victoria Lovett and is in very good condition. This is a race winning bike!